The Modern
what the critics say
Matthew Norman
Saturday, December 12, 2009 - I was wincing at the worst glass of wine I've ever lacked the strength to send back (from a bottle of pinot grigio that must have been opened in the 80s) when 'a hotpot of slow-braised mutton shoulder & Cuan oyster with pickled heritage beetroot' (Lancashire hotpot in English) arrived. For 8.25, this wasn't so bad, albeit the gravy was watery and way oversalted, the meat astoundingly tasteless for mutton and the potato overcooked. At 16.50, however, it was a calumny.
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